WCC 1990 TUSCAN REDS TASTING at
Dorato's Restaurant, Guilderland, NY (1/6/2011)
Three members (including me) of my Albany area group put together this tasting of 1990 Tuscan reds.
We each contributed 5 bottles and ended up with a nice mix of producers and appellations.
All wines were decanted between 5 and 6pm. Dinner began a little after 7pm. The wines were served sighted.
FLIGHT 1
With Risotto Cabernet con Fungi.
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- 1990 Castello Banfi Sant' Antimo Summus
- Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Sant' Antimo
Tasty, balanced, sour cherries. A pleasant wine. (88 pts.)
- 1990 Terrabianca Campaccio Barriques Toscana IGT
- Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Corked. (NR/flawed)
- 1990 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva Tenute Marchese
- Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico
Sour cherry nose. Tart, sour cherry palate. Not very appealing. (84 pts.)
- 1990 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio
- Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico
Nice smoky red fruit nose. Excellent length. Tar and black fruit. WOTF. (91 pts.)
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FLIGHT 2
With Salad with Grilled Steak.
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- 1990 Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT
- Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Stunning nose of red fruit with a hint of tangerine and spice. A delicious wine with terrific length. Wow! No sign of decline.
I suspect it is at its peak now. (94 pts.)
- 1990 Antinori Tignanello Toscana IGT
- Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Maybe the only wine of the night that could have used more air. At first, muted nose, tannic and dull. Opening slowly.
Open 2 hours show a gorgeous licorice and cherries mid-palate with very good length. (92 pts.)
- 1990 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT
- Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Smoky red fruit nose. Terrific sense of harmony. Clear WOTN so far. (94 pts.)
- 1990 Col d'Orcia (Cinzano) Olmaia Toscana IGT
- Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Big, smoky red fruit nose. Gorgeous fruit and spice. Seems more Tuscan than the Sassicaia. Another delicious wine drinking beautifully tonight.
(93 pts.)
- 1990 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia Vino da Tavola
- Italy, Tuscany, Vino da Tavola
Big, unmistakably Cabernet nose of red currants really stands out in the tasting. A stunning wine.
Even accounting for the difference in grapes, this wine stands out in this tasting. A truly great wine with a terrific sense of harmony.
Great length. I could drink this all night! By far WOTN for me. (97 pts.)
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FLIGHT 3
With Sliced Duck Breast in some kind of berry sauce with Duck Skin Cracklins, aka Duck Gribenes.
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1990 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Grandi Annate
- Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Another beauty. Lovely, smoky nose. Excellent length and harmony. Impressive. (92 pts.)
- 1990 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino
- Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Classic Sangiovese. A beautiful, elegant wine. Probably at its peak now. (92 pts.)
- 1990 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
- Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Very young. Stunning nose. A very complex wine. Wow! This wine should improve for at least 5-8 more years (95 pts.)
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FLIGHT 4
With Pork Tenderloin in a nice mild brown sauce with Spiced Granny Smith Apples.
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- 1990 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Brunello di Montalcino
- Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Elegant, lovely. Definitely one to drink now. (92 pts.)
- 1990 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino
- Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Elegant, stunning. Fabulous and youthful. Sweet cherries. This and the Poggio Antico Riserva are the Brunellos of the night for me.
(94 pts.)
- 1990 Val di Suga (Angelini) Brunello di Montalcino
- Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Elegant, smooth. Chocolaty. Good wine. (92 pts.)
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SUMMARY
This tasting showed that 1990 is clearly a terrific vintage in Tuscany and that most of the wines are at or nearing their peak.
Now is a good time to drink most wines from this vintage, especially the Sangiovese-based wines.
For me, there was a consistent pleasure in these wines. Almost all of them in the 90-94 point range.
MORE PHOTOS
Joel presents Keith with his certificate of election to Fellow of the Culinary Institute of America.
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Chef Mike Dorato (far right) brings out his staff for a bow.
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Chef Mike Dorato chats with the guys.
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Steve and Larry are still studious.
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All original content © Ken Vastola