WCC 1990 TUSCAN REDS TASTING at Dorato's Restaurant, Guilderland, NY (1/6/2011)

Three members (including me) of my Albany area group put together this tasting of 1990 Tuscan reds. We each contributed 5 bottles and ended up with a nice mix of producers and appellations.

All wines were decanted between 5 and 6pm. Dinner began a little after 7pm. The wines were served sighted.

FLIGHT 1

With Risotto Cabernet con Fungi.
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  1. 1990 Castello Banfi Sant' Antimo Summus - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Sant' Antimo
    Tasty, balanced, sour cherries. A pleasant wine. (88 pts.)
  2. 1990 Terrabianca Campaccio Barriques Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    Corked. (NR/flawed)
  3. 1990 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva Tenute Marchese - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico
    Sour cherry nose. Tart, sour cherry palate. Not very appealing. (84 pts.)
  4. 1990 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico
    Nice smoky red fruit nose. Excellent length. Tar and black fruit. WOTF. (91 pts.)
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FLIGHT 2

With Salad with Grilled Steak.
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  1. 1990 Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    Stunning nose of red fruit with a hint of tangerine and spice. A delicious wine with terrific length. Wow! No sign of decline. I suspect it is at its peak now. (94 pts.)
  2. 1990 Antinori Tignanello Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    Maybe the only wine of the night that could have used more air. At first, muted nose, tannic and dull. Opening slowly. Open 2 hours show a gorgeous licorice and cherries mid-palate with very good length. (92 pts.)
  3. 1990 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    Smoky red fruit nose. Terrific sense of harmony. Clear WOTN so far. (94 pts.)
  4. 1990 Col d'Orcia (Cinzano) Olmaia Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    Big, smoky red fruit nose. Gorgeous fruit and spice. Seems more Tuscan than the Sassicaia. Another delicious wine drinking beautifully tonight. (93 pts.)
  5. 1990 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia Vino da Tavola - Italy, Tuscany, Vino da Tavola
    Big, unmistakably Cabernet nose of red currants really stands out in the tasting. A stunning wine. Even accounting for the difference in grapes, this wine stands out in this tasting. A truly great wine with a terrific sense of harmony. Great length. I could drink this all night! By far WOTN for me. (97 pts.)
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FLIGHT 3

With Sliced Duck Breast in some kind of berry sauce with Duck Skin Cracklins, aka Duck Gribenes.
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  1. 1990 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Grandi Annate - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
    Another beauty. Lovely, smoky nose. Excellent length and harmony. Impressive. (92 pts.)
  2. 1990 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
    Classic Sangiovese. A beautiful, elegant wine. Probably at its peak now. (92 pts.)
  3. 1990 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
    Very young. Stunning nose. A very complex wine. Wow! This wine should improve for at least 5-8 more years (95 pts.)
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FLIGHT 4

With Pork Tenderloin in a nice mild brown sauce with Spiced Granny Smith Apples.
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  1. 1990 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
    Elegant, lovely. Definitely one to drink now. (92 pts.)
  2. 1990 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
    Elegant, stunning. Fabulous and youthful. Sweet cherries. This and the Poggio Antico Riserva are the Brunellos of the night for me. (94 pts.)
  3. 1990 Val di Suga (Angelini) Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
    Elegant, smooth. Chocolaty. Good wine. (92 pts.)
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SUMMARY

This tasting showed that 1990 is clearly a terrific vintage in Tuscany and that most of the wines are at or nearing their peak. Now is a good time to drink most wines from this vintage, especially the Sangiovese-based wines. For me, there was a consistent pleasure in these wines. Almost all of them in the 90-94 point range.


MORE PHOTOS

Joel presents Keith with his certificate of election to Fellow of the Culinary Institute of America.
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Chef Mike Dorato (far right) brings out his staff for a bow.
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Chef Mike Dorato chats with the guys.
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Steve and Larry are still studious.
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All original content © Ken Vastola