Produttori del Barbaresco Rabajà Vertical & 1978 Horizontal
@ Del Posto Restaurant,
NYC (3/9/2012)
The Rare Wine Co.
set up this dinner, which included a vertical of Produttori Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva
from 2007 back to 1978 intersecting with a horizontal of 1978 Produttori Barbarescos.
The guest of honor was the managing director of the Produttori del Barbaresco, Aldo Vacca.
I had the good fortune to be seated next to Aldo.
On the other side of Aldo was Mannie Berk who runs Rare Wine Co.
Here is the email announcing this dinner.
The food at Del Posto was excellent and well-matched to the wines.
The service was also excellent.
All the wines were opened and double-decanted between 5 and 6pm.
The dinner started around 7:45 and lasted till nearly 11pm.
This is the second Produttori dinner in NYC organized by Rare Wine Co.
The first was at Convivio in January of 2009.
Here are my notes and photos from that dinner.
That dinner included the 1996, 1985, and 1978 Rabajà, all of which showed quite similarly to the
way they did at this dinner.
Additionally we had a flight 1978's which included the Pora and Montefico, which were the only
wines missing from the flight of 1978's here. The 1978 Rio Sordo showed much better there than here.
I also participated in
another Produttori dinner
with another group in August of 2010.
This dinner included the 1990 Rabajà missing from the vertical here and a bottle of the 2000 Rabajà
which showed much better than the bottle at this dinner.
The Produttori del Barbaresco
is a cooperative in the Commune of Barbaresco.
You can find much more information about the winery and its wines at the
Fine Wine Geek's Produttori page.
Also, more detailed pictures of the bottles from this tasting.
For any image, click on it for a larger view of that image which may contain more picture.
Starter
With a variety of small apps passed around while folks chatted.
The Dinner
Del Post Wine Director Jeff Porter introduces Mannie. |
Mannie Berk introduces the dinner. |
Mannie Berk introduces Aldo Vacca. |
Aldo discusses the wines and |
the winery and its history. |
Flight 1: Rabajà 2007 back to 2000
With Tortello Puzzone with Taleggio Dolce & White Truffle Butter.
Aldo called this the "Global Warming Flight". He feels these were generally warmer years
that produced more consistently ripe wines.
-
2007 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Wonderfully floral nose. Delicate yet structured and tannic in the mouth.
Has a sweetness and purity to it that makes it really appealing right now.
Should drink well for 20 years. 93-95 points. (94 pts.)
-
2005 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Muted nose. In the mouth it is riper and sweeter than the 07,
with less structure at this point. (92 pts.)
-
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Wow! Great structure and harmony. It's all there in balance to be a great wine.
Young but quite riveting right now. 94-96 points. (95 pts.)
-
2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Another stunner! Floral nose, structured palate, a great sense of harmony,
beautiful red fruit. 95-96 points. (95 pts.)
-
2000 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
From magnum. Noticeably darker color than any of the younger wines.
Has a flatness or dullness to it that is not appealing.
I wonder if it is a little off, but Aldo and Mannie think it is fine.
(87 pts.)
(Look here
for my note on a bottle that showed much better.)
Flight 2: Rabajà 1999 back to 1985
With Veal Agnolotti with Truffle Powder, Tyrolean Speck & Grana Padano.
-
1999 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Aldo says this wine was so think when young that it was hard to pump over!
Muted nose. Very backward and structured. Hard to judge right now, but I bet it
will be excellent in 10 years. 92-95 points. (93 pts.)
-
1997 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
From magnum. No nose. Sour. All agree it is not a good bottle. Sad.
Aldo says this is among the most fruit driven of these wines from a sound bottle.
(NR/flawed)
-
1996 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Bright red fruit nose. Penetrating rich fruit and tannin. This is just a great wine.
May not peak for 5-10 years more, but it's all in there! (95 pts.)
-
1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
From Magnum. Earth, mushroom, and black fruit nose.
The first wine to have any real tertiary notes. Monumental in the mouth.
Another great 89. This is especially stunning from magnum. (97 pts.)
-
1985 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
From magnum. Fully mature nose. Soft and elegant in the mouth.
I think I liked this better the last time when it wasn't following the 89.
Aldo says he never liked the 85s, but he is beginning to appreciate this one.
(92 pts.)
Flight 2 in my glasses. |
Mark Connolly and his son. |
Mannie chats with Aldo. |
Paul Tortora takes notes on his iPhone. |
Flight 3: 1978, Part 1
Broiled Veal Chop with Prosciutto-Wrapped Scorzonero & Rossini Sauce.
This flight and the next one contained the 1978 base Barbaresco and 6 of the 8 Crus that
were made in 1978. Only Montefico and Pora were missing.
I tasted the 1978 Montefico and Pora (as well as the 1978 Rio Sordo and Rabajà) at the
previous Rare
Produttori dinner. (No Paje was made in 1978.)
Aldo said this was a cool growing season until September and October when it was
unusually warm. The wines have a body and thickness to them that is unlike
any other vintage.
-
1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Color is younger than the 85. Sweet cherry nose.
Thick, juicy, very tasty and well-balanced, just a touch of VA.
Very impressive for a 34-year-old base Barbaresco! (92 pts.)
-
1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Ethereal nose. Still very tannic. Great length. Could use another 5 years.
(95 pts.)
-
1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Similar nose. Softer on the palate, more ready.
Lovely licorice and red fruit on long finish. (93 pts.)
-
1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Similar nose on this one too. Sweeter in the mouth.
Thick, rich, and very long in the mouth. This bottle is at its peak!
Wow, what a treat! (96 pts.)
Flight 4: 1978, Part 2
With Chef's Selection of Artisanal Cheeses.
-
1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Nose of earth and dried cherries. Nothing but tart cherries on the palate.
Seems like an off bottle to me. (85 pts.)
-
1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Black fruit and licorice nose.
Thick and rich in the mouth with a very long riveting tannic finish.
This is the pièce de résistance of the tasting and the WOTN for me.
(97 pts.)
-
1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
I don't know if it was the let-down after the Rabajà, but this and the Ovello
were similarly flat and uninteresting. Nothing but sour cherries. (86 pts.)
Aldo describes and |
discusses the 1978 vintage. |
What a wonderful tasting! What a treat to have so many vintages of the great Rabajà
followed by so many 1978s. It was also a treat to sit with Aldo Vacca and Mannie and
Paul Tortora of Rare Wine Co and chat about the wines.
This was a very special experience.
Notes posted from CellarTracker
All original content © Ken Vastola