NK CAPPELLANO VERTICAL
Maialino Restaurant,
Gramercy Park Hotel, NYC
10/5/2012
A good-sized contingent of Nebbiolo Knights gathered for a long-planned vertical of Cappellano.
Many, if not most of the bottles were brought by Jamie Wolff or purchased from his store,
Chambers Street Wines.
The food at Maialino is superb and matches very well with mature Nebbiolo.
The waitstaff and wine staff are excellent as well.
All the reds were double-decanted around 4pm, except for the 1995's and the 1996.
For more on the wines, vineyards, and history of Cappellano, check out the Fine Wine Geek's
Cappellano page.
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Arrival
The Entrance to Maialino. |
Greg, Kelly, Bob, Henry, Liz, Jamie. |
The staff sets the private room. Tom & Kelly look on. |
The Menu. |
Starters
With a variety of wonderful appetizers.
Thin sliced radish with Bottarga & Butter. |
Prosciutto Crochet. |
Fish? I don't recall. |
Great service. |
Figs and ??? |
Salumi Misti: Prosciutto di Parma,
Mortadella, Soppressata Piccante. |
Flight 1: 1935 & 1947 Barolo
Greg and Bob and Flight 1 with three fabulous Antipasti. |
Bresaola (House-Cured Eye Round, Apples, Fennel & Parmigiano). |
Crostini di Fegato (Filone, Chicken Liver Mousse & Balsamic Vinegar. |
Polpo all Piastra (Seared Octopus & Chilled Scafata). |
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1935 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Light garnet color with clear edge. Heavenly nose of smoke and juicy cherries.
Exquisite in the mouth. Stunningly long and complex.
What a way to start this tasting. I brought this and knew it could be dead,
but it was far from it. Early candidate for WOTN. What a great experience.
(96 pts.)
-
1947 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Even more vivid cherries in the nose (compared to the 1935),
but some dirtiness detracts on the palate.
Still, charming and quite alive for a 65 year old wine.
(92 pts.)
Flight 2: 1958 Barbaresco, 1958 & 1964 Barolo
With Tortelli di Zucca (Pumpkin, Sage & Parmigiano Reggiano).
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1958 Cappellano Barbaresco
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Subtle mature elegant nose of dried cherries. Very light color.
A very delicate wine with sweet and sour cherries and good length.
(93 pts.)
-
1958 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Dirty in the nose and mouth. Has some fruit, but not appealing.
(NR)
-
1964 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Again dirty in the nose and mouth. This one is downright unpleasant.
(NR)
- There was also a 1957 Cappellano Barbaresco that sadly was badly corked.
Flight 3: 1967 Barolo Riseva, 1970 & 1974 Barolo
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1967 Cappellano Barolo Riserva Speciale
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Wood mulch and cherry nose. Sweet cherries in the mouth.
Great length. Rich and dark for a traditional wine of this age.
Reminds me a bit of a good bottle of 1967 Barolo from G. Mascarello
we had a few years ago with Mauro. This is a wow wine. (96 pts.)
-
1970 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Cherry mulch nose. Another gem! A long cherry finish. Complex in the mouth.
Excellent wine. (94 pts.)
-
1974 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Darker color. Deep, ripe black cherry nose. The first wine tonight that is young.
Thick and silky.
Some here are wondering if a little Aglianico from the south made it into this wine.
Still, very nice. (93 pts.)
Flight 4: 1978, 1979, 1980, & 1982 Barolo
With Maialino al Forno (Roasted Suckling Pig & Potatoes).
This namesake dish is amazingly delicious and is a great match with mature Nebbiolo.
Click on the right-hand picture to get a good look at the skin!
Others had Coniglio (Whole Roast Rabbit & Spinach):
Funghi Trifolati (Mushrooms, White Wine, Anchovy):
Fagiolini (Pan Roasted String Beans & Garlic):
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1978 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Big ripe nose. Silky and mature in the mouth. Long finish. A lovely wine.
(93 pts.)
-
1979 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Black cherry nose. Young, sweet, and rich. More sweet and harmonious than the 78.
Anyone drinking these side by side and blind would think this is the 78.
Very nice wine. (95 pts.)
-
1980 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Musty and over the hill. Not much here. (NR)
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1982 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A lovely and elegant wine with very good length.
The first time I have even seen this wine. (92 pts.)
Flight 5: 1989 Barolo Otin Fiorin & 1990 Barolo
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1989 Cappellano Barolo Otin Fiorin (Gabutti)
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Stunning nose of ripe red fruits, spice, and balsam.
Thick, rich, tannic. Great harmony and balance.
Really shows the vintage character well. Wish I owned some of this.
(98-100 pts.)
-
1990 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Sweeter black cherry in the nose (compared to the 1989).
Silky sweet and gorgeous in the mouth. A delicious wine.
Much more supple and ready than the 1989,
with the silkiness typical of the vintage. A superb wine.
(97 pts.)
Flight 6: 1995 Otin Fiorin, 1995 Barolo Franco, & 1996 Barolo Franco
With Cheese Course: Pecorino Gregoriano (Abruzzo), Robiola Enrico Rossello (Piemonte),
Casatica di Bufala (Lombardia), & Sunflower Honey.
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1995 Cappellano Barolo Otin Fiorin (Gabutti)
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Double decanted at 3pm. Smokey cherry nose. Tight, tannic, black fruit.
A touch sour now, but a bright future. (93-95 pts.)
-
1995 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti)
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Double decanted at 3pm. Stunning black fruit and spice. Exquisite tannins.
Smoother than the Rupestris at this stage. Great harmony and a great future.
(95-98 pts.)
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1996 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti)
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Decanted at 7pm. Tasted about 9pm. Stunning black fruit nose.
Very tannic but an obviously great future. (96-99 pts.)
Digestive & Dessert
Tartufo: Chocolate Gelato & Poached Sour Cherries. |
Crostata: Pear Tart & Maple Bourbon Gelato. |
Torta di Cioccolato: Flourless Chocolate Cake & Buttermilk Gelato. |
Torta di Olio d'Oliva: Olive Oil Cake & Vanilla Bean Mascarpone. |
Just a great evening of great wines, great food and great friends.
What more could one want?
Notes posted from CellarTracker
You can find Greg dal Piaz's notes on this dinner here.
People Photos
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Greg goes all technological on us! |
Jamie, Tom, and Kelly chat with Naomi Rosen
of Rosenthal Wine Merchants
(who imports Cappellano to the US). |
Again with the technology. |
Greg and Bob. |
Joe, Dan, Henry. |
Greg, Steve, Bob. |
Liz pours. |
Steve & Tom. |
The Last Supper? |
The whole gang. |
Jamie & Liz. |
Greg loses it:
Luckily my car was waiting back at the hotel:
All original content © Ken Vastola