Indigena World Tour Day 3: The Marche
@ Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria, NYC (6/6/2018)


Day One of a three-day educational tasting event organized by Ian D'Agata's Indigena.

See my main page for this event for background, overview, and links to the other two days.


Indigena Tasting Day 3: The Marche

Day Three focused on the wines of the Marche region of Italy, primarily Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. In fact, Indigena titled this day 50th Anniversary of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi & Friends since Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi was granted DOC status in 1968. The first three flights were all Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Flight 4 had two Verdicchios from the other important Verdicchio DOC, Verdicchio di Matelica. Flight 4 concluded with five reds from the Marche.

Links to each flight:
Ian d'Agata told us that today is mostly about the two most significant DOC wines made from the Verdicchio grape: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. Both DOCs also have Superiore and Riserva versions. He said that the Superiore category is a mixed bag of wines, often made from late-harvested grapes and sometimes remarkably Alsace-like in their rich, almost oily textures. Perhaps because I love the wines of Alsace, I found the Superiores made in this style to be among my favorite wines of the day. Ian said that Riserva on a label normally means that the wine was aged in wood. I did not find these wines as consistently appealing. Ian pointed out that the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi zone features gentler slopes and a more temperate climate thanks to its proximity to the sea, while Matelica is a landlocked, mountainous, generally cooler region. Verdicchios from Jesi are fruitier and rounder, while those from Matelica are fuller-bodied and more mineral.

Click on an image with a border for a much larger view of that image which may contain additional image.

Jeff Porter gives us some background on the Marche wine regions:

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi received DOC status in 1968. Hence 2018 was the 50th anniversary of the DOC. Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva received DOCG status in 2010. Verdicchio di Matelica was granted DOC status in 1967. Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva became a DOCG in 2010. All four of these must contain a minimum of 85% of the Verdicchio grape. The rest can be Trebbiano and/or Malvasia.

Here is a wine region map of the Marche similar to the one Jeff showed us:
From https://www.cellartours.com/italy/italian-wine-maps/marche.


Marche Flight One: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 1
None of these wines see any wood. They are all fermented in stainless steel or cement tanks.
  1. 2017 Conte Leopardi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Castelverde - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
    Bright citrus nose. Crisp and fresh. Tart orange and a hint of almonds and granny smith apples. Tastes even crisper after the next wine. Tasty and refreshing. (90 points)
  2. 2017 La Staffa Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
    Similar to 1, but the nose is sweeter. Softer in the mouth. Lovely, but not quite as refreshing as 1. (89 points)
  3. 2017 Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Casal di Serra - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
    [Some of the grapes are vinified using cold-soak to "improve extraction of varietal character". Fermented in steel tanks controlled to 16-18°C for 10-15 days. No malolactic fermentation. Aged in steel for about 5 months in contact with its yeasts. Bottled at the end of April.] Huge sweet citrus nose. Soft up front, but has serious structure in the mid-palate and long finish. Just a beautiful, complex white wine. (93 points)
  4. 2016 Azienda Santa Barbara Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Le Vaglie - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
    Fresh, simple, citrus nose. Opening slowly. Lovely, if somewhat simple. (88 points)
  5. 2016 Azienda Agricola Andrea Felici Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
    Not too sweet nose of citrus. Appealing. Simple. (87 points)

Marche Flight Two: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2
  1. 2015 Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
    More of a saline nose than anything in flight one. Incredibly rich and structured. A powerful wine that needs a few more years to fully open up. Wow! (92-94 points)
  2. 2015 Azienda Santa Barbara Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
    Muted nose. Crisper than #1, but still quite full bodied. Long and very tasty. (92 points)
  3. 2015 Azienda Agricola Andrea Felici Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Il Cantico della Figura - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
    Crisper, fresher nose (more like flight 1). Lighter in the mouth, but so fresh and delicious. (93 points)
  4. 2015 La Staffa Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Rincrocca - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
    Like #3 more similar to flight one, but equally delicious, just lighter and fresher than #1 and #2, but I would not expect it to improve like those two. Ian says the big difference between 1 and 2 vs. 3 and 4 is that 3 and 4 come from vineyards at a higher altitude. (92 points)
  5. 2015 Tenuta di Tavignano Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Classico Superiore Misco - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
    Rich, softer and sweeter than 3 and 4. Style is in between the first four wines. A hint of sweetness would make this a better choice for a dish with a little sweetness. (91 points)

Marche Flight Three: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 3
  1. 2016 Azienda Agricola Bucci Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
    Huge nose of citrus and minerals. Also huge in the mouth. A powerhouse wow wine. The first wine I swallowed completely. Stunning. If Zind-Humbrecht made a Verdicchio.... Should improve for years to come. (94 points)
  2. 2016 Barone Pizzini Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Pievalta - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
    Very intense nose. Flavorful, crisp in the mouth. A wonderful wine. From sandy soil. (93 points)
  3. 2015 Filodivino Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Filotto - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
    Muted nose, but quite full and flavorful in the mouth. (91 points)
  4. 2015 Marotti Campi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Salmariano - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
    Full and complex in the nose and mouth. "Salmariano" is the name of the local castle. (92 points)
  5. 2014 Montecappone Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Utopia - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
    Sour nose. An off flavor in the mouth. Something's wrong here. Judgement Reserved.
  6. 2013 Barone Pizzini Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva San Paolo Pievalta - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
    Everything I liked in #2 (2016 Barone Pizzini Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Pievalta) pushed too far. Too oaky. Too intense. (88 points)
  7. 2013 Azienda Agricola Bucci Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Villa Bucci - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
    Smoky citrus nose. Similar to #1, but more so. Still not over the top. Needs time. (92-94 points)

Marche Flight Four: Other Important Wines of the Marche
Flight Four had two Verdicchios from the other important Verdicchio DOC, Verdicchio di Matelica. Then concluded the day with five red wines from Marche: two Rosso Piceno, one Rosso Conero, and two Lacrima di Morro d'Alba.
Roberto Paris and his team pouring the last flight:
  1. 2017 Belisario Verdicchio di Matelica Vigneti del Cerro - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio di Matelica
    Nose of green apple and peach. Full, thick, yet crisp in the mouth. Peach and pineapple in the mouth. Just delicious. Should improve for several years. (92 points)
  2. 2015 Belisario Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva "Cambrugiano" - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio di Matelica
    Fresh, full. A bit simpler than 1, but still very tasty and eminently drinkable. Long. (91 points)
  3. 2016 Montecappone Mirizzi Rosso Piceno - Italy, Marche, Rosso Piceno
    [Rosso Piceno is a red DOC in March. It requires 35–85% of the Montepulciano grape, 15–50% of the Sangiovese grape, and allows for a maximum of 15% of "other authorized nonaromatic red grapes."] Grapey, youthful waxy black fruit nose. Soft up front. Juicy acidity on the finish. Needs another year or two. (91 points)
  4. 2014 Azienda Agricola Bucci Rosso Piceno Tenuta Pongelli - Italy, Marche, Rosso Piceno
    Smoky, spicy black pepper and black fruit nose. Smooth, more mellow in the mouth. Nice. (90 points)
  5. 2010 Conte Leopardi Rosso Conero Casirano - Italy, Marche, Rosso Conero
    [Rosso Conero is a DOC in Ancona. Rosso Conero is also the local name for the Montepulciano grape. The DOC requires a minimum of 85% Montepulciano. This particular wine contains 85% Montepulciano, 8% Syrah, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon.] Black fruit and dark chocolate nose. Thick, silky. A little gummy. Nice. A bit simple. (88 points)
  6. 2016 Marotti Campi Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Superiore Orgiolo - Italy, Marche, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba
    [Lacrima di Morro d'Alba is a DOC red wine from the province of Ancona in Marche. It must be made at least 85% from the fairly rare Lacrima grape and up to 15% of the Verdicchio grape. The DOC was created in 1985. This wine was just bottled.] Tart black cherry nose. Tasty, grapey, young, appealing. Opening up in the glass. Some potpourri in the nose. (89 points)
  7. 2015 Filodivino Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Diana - Italy, Marche, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba
    Black pepper and black cherries in the nose. Jammy in the mouth. Would go great with some BBQ. (87 points)


People Pix

Iacopo di Teodoro of Artisanal Cellars discusses the La Staffa wines which he imports and distributes:

??? of Vineyard Brands presents the wines of Umani Ronchi:

Jeff Porter introduces Flight Two:

Giulia Corino and Ian d'Agata of Indigena:

The Fine Wine Geek during the lunch break:

The Empson rep ??? talks about the Villa Bucci wines:

Some wide-angle shots of the room:

Silvano Brescianini of Pievalta talks about his wines:

Roberto Paris of Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria thanks us for coming and then high-fives Ian on his way out:

Ian has some closing comments:


Summary

Another fascinating day of learning about some wonderful wines from outside Italy's most famous regions.

Notes posted from CellarTracker.

 

 

 


All original content © Ken Vastola