ITALIAN WINES
at Il Cenácolo, Newburgh, NY (1/25/2004)
This was my first BB offline, and it was terrific!
Thanks to everyone for attending, bringing good wines, and being delightful company, and especially to Steven Sharoff for organizing it!
These notes are mine except where noted.
First, the locale and the food: Il Cenácolo is an excellent
Italian restaurant in Newburgh, NY. The food is authentic Tuscan fare with touches of Piedmont.
The winelist seems very good though we did not order from it.
The owner, Sali, is a knowledgeable perfectionist, a good combination in a restaurateur.
I was told that the Wall Street Journal just named it one of the top restaurants in the US.
We started with some white wine while standing, and with the first 2 courses:
"Asparagus with brown butter and parmigiano" and
"White salad with light anchovy sauce."
There was another white wine which I did not taste (2002 Alois Lageder Vogelmeier Moscato Giallo Alto Adige).
The one I had was
- 2002 Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina, Campania
Light, crisp, a pleasant wine to sip wine while the reds are being opened. 86 points
The next two were served with a well-prepared "Risotto with quail and black truffles,"
a very Italian-wine-friendly dish. Both wines matched well with this dish.
- 1997 Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (bottled by Simonetta Valiani)
Lovely cherry nose. Medium body, ripe, acidic, mild tannins. Lovely, but young. Needs 5-10 years. 91-93 points
Andy Levine: "sharp, acidic" - 1991 Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa
Earthy, woodsy, mellow, mature, but still has tannins. Ready but should live for 3-5 years more. 93 points
Andy's WOTN: "Mad good"
Both the above improved further with the next food course paired with the wines below.
This course was a "Breast of duck with port cranberry sauce" that was fabulous. (The FOTN for me! )
- 1995 Pieve Santa Restituta (Gaja) Brunello di Montalcino Rennina
Mild cherry, mushroom nose. Riveting mid palate. Close to ready, but still tart. Soft. Needs a few years.
Actually muted by the duck. 90 points
- 1997 Pieve Santa Restituta (Gaja) Brunello di Montalcino Rennina
Sweet cherry nose. Big in the mouth. Medium length, but excellent potential here. Shines with the duck! 92-94 points
With delicious, tender Rack of lamb:
- 1985 Gaja Barbaresco Sori Tildìn
Classic nose of tar and roses. Steve picks up some chocolate. Tons of tannin, will it ever soften? Riveting finish.
I think it still needs time. Shows more fruit and complexity with the lamb. 95 points
- 1989 Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis
Sweet in the nose: cherries, plums, and roses. Stunning! Expansive in the mouth, explodes. Wow!
Tannic, but beginning its plateau of maturity with at least a decade ahead. The finish of smoke and cherries lasts forever.
Pow! The WOTN for me. 98 points
The next course was "Italian pot roast Fiorentina style" which was tasty but a little heavy on the vinegar for me.
- 1987 Altare Barbera Vigna Larigi
Heavenly nose of red fruits and licorice. Silky, still has oak and tannin. At its peak now. I was astonished that this showed so well.
This is what modern barrique barbera can do? Wow! 94 points
- 1997 Allegrini Amarone
A boatload of ripe fruit, but sadly an unpleasant dose of ammonia. Corked.
Jean Rieber: "Mothballs.
So we opened
- 1989 Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc
Reticent, but fabulous nose. Expansive in the mouth. Not as dense and backward as last spring. A very long finish.
Starting to show its stuff! 96 points
The dessert course was listed as "Apple tart and others" and was quite tasty.
The apple tart paired well with the first two dessert wines:
- 2001 Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvée (375ml)
Lovely nose of peaches and apricots. Light body, pleasant. Just a touch of botrytis. 91 points
- 1991 Maculan Acininobili Veneto (375ml)
[85% Vespaiola, 10% Tocai, 5% Garganega.] Notable amber color. Heavily botrytised nose of stewed apricots and honey.
Expansive, gorgeous. A long finish. Matches superbly with the apple strudel. 94 points
- 1983 Ferreira Quinta do Seixo Port
Muted licorice and allspice nose. Hot, alcoholic, sweet and burning. Not rated.
- 1981 Chateau Reynella "Vintage Port" McLaren Vale
Muted nose. (Not sure if it's the wine's or mine by now.) A touch alcoholic but very nice. Ready. 89 points
Well, I said I would do these notes tonight, and I did. God only knows how many typos there are.
Again, thanks to all for a lovely evening. Nighty, night.
All original content © Ken Vastola