WCC BLIND AMARONE at Dorato's Resturant, Guilderland, NY (10/7/2010)

My regular Albany group got together to drink Amarone from a wide range of vintages. Wines were bagged and served double blind. That is, we knew they were Amarones, but not which ones (except any that we brought).

The food at Dorato's was superb. Chef Mike Dorato did a great job with the food, and these rich dishes were among the best matches to the wines that we've had in a long time.

FLIGHT 1

With Filet of Beef in an Amarone Reduction Sauce (made with Masi Amarone according to Chef Tom). Tasty and a good match to the wines.
Click on an image with a border for a larger view of that image.
  1. 1977 Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
    Wonderfully exotic nose of orange and red fruits and spices. Still has some biting tannins, but the overall package is mellow and complex. Long finish of sour cherries and spice. Seems at its peak. In marvelous condition for a 33 year old wine. In my top 5. Group #2. (94 pts.)
  2. 1981 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
    Aged Balsamic nose. Quite open with terrific complexity in the mouth. Amazing length! I am just loving this wine!!! My #1 WOTN. Tied for group #7. (96 pts.)
  3. 1980 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Mazzano - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
    Muted spicy nose. Complex but a touch of oxidation. Quite drinkable, but must have been better 5 years ago. (91 pts.)
  4. 1983 Bertani Recioto della Valpolicella Amarone Classico Superiore - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Recioto della Valpolicella
    Fascinating nose of soy and spices. Expansive, stunning in the mouth. Great length. Still tannic, but complex, delicious tannins. My #2 WOTN. Tied for group #7. (95 pts.)
Click on an image with a border for a larger view of that image.


FLIGHT 2

With Veal Osso Buco with Peppercorn Demiglace in Phyllo Bowl. (My favorite dish, this rich dish was perfect with Amarone.)
Click on an image with a border for a larger view of that image.
  1. 1985 Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
    Muted nose of black cherry but with a fascinating sensuous aroma for which it is hard to find a polite word. Complex, expansive, thick and rich. Notably more youthful than the previous flight. Could use 5-10 years. 93-95 points. In my top 5. (94 pts.)
  2. 1988 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
    Complex, thick and delicious. The most modern so far with some noticeable oak. Could use 10 more years of age. 93-95 points. In my top 5. Tied for group #5. (94 pts.)
  3. 1990 Luigi Righetti Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Capitel De' Roari - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
    Turpentine. Yuck! Tied for group #5. Go figure! (NR/flawed)
Click on an image with a border for a larger view of that image.


FLIGHT 3

With Capanota-stuffed Buffalo Milk Mozzarella and Salad. Not as good of a match, but a refreshing course.
Click on an image with a border for a larger view of that image.
  1. 1996 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
    Another stunning nose. Thick, sweet and delicious in the mouth. Still very young. Group #4. (93 pts.)
  2. 1997 Fabiano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
    Another young powerhouse. Getting hard to judge these now, but this one is excellent. (93 pts.)
  3. 1997 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Serègo Alighieri Vaio Armaron - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
    Big thick rich with loads of vanilla. Very modern style. This is the first wine tonight that might be over-oaked. The group loves it, but I would reserve judgment for now. 91-? Group #1. (91 pts.)
Click on an image with a border for a larger view of that image.


FLIGHT 4

With Sweetbreads and Wild Mushrooms in Phyllo Dough with Balsamic Reduction.
Click on an image with a border for a larger view of that image.
  1. 2000 Le Salette Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Pergole Vece - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
    Thick biting tannic, but terrific potential here. One of my favorites and the group #3. (94 pts.)
  2. 2004 Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Sergio Zenato Riserva - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
    Mildly corked. Judgment reserved. (NR/flawed)
  3. 2006 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Costasera - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
    Badly corked. (NR/flawed)
Click on an image with a border for a larger view of that image.


Notes posted from CellarTracker

SUMMARY

All in all, my excitement for aged Amarone is renewed. The oldest wines showed brilliantly. The younger wines showed great potential. With the delicious, well-matched food, this was one of my favorite tastings in recent memory.


MORE PHOTOS

Chef Mike Dorato (far right) brings out his staff for a bow.
Click on an image with a border for a larger view of that image.


Chef Mike Dorato.
Click on an image with a border for a larger view of that image.


 

 

 

All original content © Ken Vastola