BAROLO INCLUDING A GIACOSA RIONDA RISERVA VERTICAL
@ Maialino Restaurant,
Gramercy Park Hotel, NYC (10/14/2011)
Tom organized this event around a trip he made to NYC.
Tom generously brought the 78 and 89 Riondas.
Dan and I filled in with the 82 and 90, resp.
Tom also set up the meal with Maialino, where the food and service are highly recommended,
esp. with mature Barolo! There was also an Aldo Conterno Cicala which was totally corked.
This was one of my favorite meals of the year.
The food, the service, and the atmosphere at Maialino are just great!
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Flight 0: Champagne
With Grande Selezione di Salumi consisting of Prosciutto di Parma (Emilia-Romagna),
Mortadella (Maialino, NY), Felino (San Francisco, CA), Finocchiona (San Francisco, CA),
Soppressata Piccante (Long Island City, NY).
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Flight 1: Giacosa Rionda Riserva Vertical
With a variety of wonderful appetizers and pasta dishes.
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Veal Tortellini en Brodo.
Frittura Vegetale.
Insalata di Coppa:
Suckling Pig Terrine & Baby Head Lettuce.
Polpo e Patate:
Octopus, Potatoes, Celery & Lemon.
Malfatti al Maialino:
Braised Suckling Pig & Arugula.
Spaghetti alla Carbonara:
Black Pepper, Guanciale & Egg.
Four of the five vintages of Giacosa Rionda Riserva ever made (no one had the 1967 to bring).
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Speciale Collina Rionda
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Opened at 1pm. Decanted at 5pm. Served at 7pm.] An ethereal nose of smoky red fruit.
Thick and tannic in the mouth. Long, drying finish. Still overtly tannic.
Some caramel notes in the finish. Mature, maybe at its peak now. (96 pts.)
1982 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Opened at 1pm. Served at 7pm. No decanting.]
Sweeter in the nose than the 78 with more red fruit.
Has a richness and sweetness that is incredibly appealing.
A great showing for this wine, perhaps the most pleasurable of the evening to drink tonight.
The sweetness and harmony is compelling.
Reminds me of 82 Bordeaux as a vintage. (98 pts.)
1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Opened at 1pm. Decanted at 5pm. Served at 7pm.] Stunning nose of black fruit and iron.
Has amazing richness and length. Still perhaps 10 years from its peak.
9pm: Explosive in the mouth with unbelievable depth. Long sweet finish.
Once again the best wine I've ever had. 101 points!!! (100 pts.)
1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 1pm. Served at 7pm.] Cherries and wood mulch on the nose.
More mature than the 82 or 89. An exquisite wine full of sour cherries and autumnal flavors.
A terrific wine that just has some trouble shinning along side the 78, 82, and 89.
(96 pts.)
Flight 2: Other Barolo
With a variety of terrific main courses.
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Maialino Al Forno: Suckling Pork Shoulder roasted 5 hours.
Served over roasted potatoes.
Costata di Manzo: Whole Short Rib of Beef.
Costata di Manzo sliced and served.
Coniglio al Forno: Whole Roasted Rabbit.
Fresh Spinach.
Coco Beans, aka Le Coco de Paimpol.
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1990 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Gorgeous tar, roses, and red fruit nose. Still very tannic with sweet red fruit.
A beautiful wine which is more about elegance.
Might have shown better before the flight of Giacosa Rionda Riservas.
(95 pts.)
1990 Cappellano Barolo Otin Fiorin (Gabutti)
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Decanted at 6pm. Drunk about 8pm.] Dark black fruit nose.
Monumental in the mouth. Incredibly rich and tannic.
A big dark wine of incredible proportions.
The Serralunga fruit is much more reminiscent of the Riondas than the Bartolo.
Continues to get better with more air. No points given by
request of the winemaker.
1985 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Decanted at 6pm. Drunk around 8pm.] Glorious tonight!
Perhaps the best showing of this wine in my experience.
Exquisite, long and sweet. Terrific finish. (97 pts.)
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Rocche di Castiglione Falletto
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Decant and pour at around 8:30.] Big, dark black fruit and marzipan nose.
Wow! Elegant, floral, harmonious. One of the great white-label Giacosas.
(98 pts.)
1988 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Riserva Brunate
- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Decant and pour.] Classic woodsy red fruit nose with a hint of mint.
Very tannic. Sour, dried out, heading toward oxidized. Not Rated.
Summary
The four Rionda Riservas once again shined.
The Cappellano and the Rocche more than held their own, and the Monprivato was great.
People Photos
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Tom, Jamie.
Jamie, Dan.
Joe, Steve.
The Waitstaff is terrific here.
Tom, Jamie, Dan, Joe, Steve. (Barolo lovers wear blue?)