WCC Rioja Blind Tasting
Dorato's Restaurant
Guilderland, NY
1/31/2013

My regular Albany-area group met to taste Rioja blind. All the wines but two were provided by one member, Mike T.

Dinner began a little after 7:30pm. Decanting regimen is given for each wine below.

Flight 1: López de Heredia
Shrimp Cake in Beurre Blanc Sauce. Went brilliantly with the whites. Not so much with the reds.
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  1. 1993 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
    [Opened about 35 minutes before drinking.] Gorgeous tropical fruit nose. Very dry in the mouth. Tart tangerine. More balanced with shrimp cake. (89 points)
  2. 2003 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Crianza Viña Gravonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
    [Opened around 5pm. Drunk around 7:30.] Complex fruit cocktail nose. Fascinating flavors of orange peel and spice. Long, complex finish. Needs food! Shines with the Shrimp Cake! (91 points)
  3. 1994 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
    [Double decanted at 5, drunk around 8.] Mature, dirty nose with just a hint of fruit. Quite mature in the mouth. Opening up and improve with more air. (89-? points)
  4. 2001 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
    [Decanted for about 30 minutes; back in bottle about 90 minutes before drinking.] Beautiful bright red fruit in a Grenache-like nose. Smooth and silky in the mouth with some dry tannin on the finish. Awkward with the Shrimp Cake. May improve with more time. (91 points)
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Flight 2: Mid-1990s
Duck with Wild Mushrooms and Puff Pastry. Delicious and well matched to the wines.
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  1. 1996 Señorío de San Vicente Tempranillo Rioja San Vicente - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    [Opened about 45 minutes before drinking.] Muted nose of red fruit and mulch. Tannic red currant fruit with drying tannins on the finish. May improve significantly with more age. Judgement reserved.
  2. 1994 Bodegas Campillo Rioja Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    [Opened about 45 minutes before drinking.] Sour mulch nose. Cold, tannic. As it warms and breathes, it shows much better. Tasty. (90 points)
  3. 1996 Fernando Remírez de Ganuza Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
    [Opened about 2 hours before drinking.] Muted slate and cherry nose. Complex, long, tarry. Best wine so far. Really stands out. My #3 wine by a close margin. (93 points)
  4. 1995 Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva Viña Lanciano - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    [Opened about 40 minutes before consuming.] Dried cherry nose. Muted, tarry, sour. Not much. Bad bottle?
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    Flight 3: Late 1990s, early 2000s, part 1
    Mixed Greens in Rioja Vinaigrette and Fontina Cheese. Tasty, but a poor choice with these wines.
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    1. 1998 Artadi Rioja Viñas de Gain - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
      [Opened about 40 minutes before consuming.] Tarry, tannic, but elegant. Needs time. Has potential. (92-94 points)
    2. 2001 Bodegas Sierra Cantabria Rioja Cuvée Especial - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
      [Opened about 40 minutes before consuming.] Black cherry nose. Long, complex finish. Bright future. (93-94 points)
    3. 2001 Bodegas Muga Rioja Reserva Selección Especial - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
      [Opened about 40 minutes before consuming.] Similar nose to the wine just before. Sweet, silky, with a touch of tannin. Drinking very nicely tonight. My #2 wine by a narrow margin. (93-94 points)
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    Flight 4: Late 1990s, early 2000s, part 2
    Osso Bucco with Tarragon Mashed Potatoes.
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    1. 1998 Bodegas Muga Rioja Gran Reserva Prado Enea - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
      [Double decanted around 4pm with 30 minutes of air. Served around 8:30.] Sweet red fruit nose. Delicious, long complex wine. Great balance. WOTN for me. (94 points)
    2. 1998 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
      [Double decanted around 4pm with 30 minutes of air. Served around 8:30.] Sweet, pleasant, mature. Ready now. (91 points)
    3. 2001 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva Especial - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
      [Double decanted around 4pm with 30 minutes of air. Served around 8:30.] Elegant, sweet, slightly tannic. May need a little time. (91 points)
    4. 2001 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
      [Double decanted around 4pm with 30 minutes of air. Served around 8:30.] Black fruit. Sweet and tasty. Not showing much complexity tonight, but appealing wine. (92 points)
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    Summary

    A very interesting and educational tasting.

    We did not vote in our usual way for wine of the night. Instead we first voted for our favorite flight:

    Flight 4 won hands down with 11 votes.
    Flight 2 got 2 votes.
    Flight 3 got one vote.

    We then each just gave our top wine of the night:

    3 said wine #8 and 3 said #10.
    2 each said #12, #13, and #14.
    1 each said #9 and #15.

    Notes posted from CellarTracker

    All the wines.

    People Photos

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    The Not-So-Last Supper.

    Chef/Owner Mike Dorato comes out for a visit and a bow.

     

     

     


    All original content © Ken Vastola