Barbaresco: 1985, 1998, 2001 @ NY Vintners, NYC, 1/7/2015

Barbaresco: 1985, 1998, 2001
at New York Vintners, NYC (1/7/2015)

This dinner was organized through the discussion forum on Antonio Galloni's Vinous by Tony Kim who made all the arrangements for the venue and the excellent food (prepared by Chef Ryan Smith). Everyone sent me a list of Barbaresco in their cellar so that I could create flights.

The venue was the cellar room two floors down from the main shop of New York Vintners. Our wines and food service were managed by Sommelier Charles Springfield who did a terrific job. We all had a great time eating, drinking, and conversating.

Dinner began a little after 7pm and ended around 11pm.

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The red wines.

Starter
Antipasto.

2007 Robert Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Grande Cuvee Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne Grand Cru
From magnum. Elegant and complex. Lovely balance. (92 points)

Flight 1: 1985
Risotto with Lightly Smoked Sheep's Milk and Tiny Truffle Shavings

1985 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbaresco Sorì Paitin - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Open 2 hours. Not decanted. Earthy mushroom nose. Fully mature, elegant. Good length. Lovely now, but drink 'em if you got 'em. (90 points)
1985 Castello di Neive Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Open 2 hours. Dirty nose. Bitter. Better with cheese, but mildly corked. (NR)
1985 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Double-decanted at 11am. Appealing nose of earth, mulch and roses. Elegant, long. Fully mature, but no sign of decline. An excellent bottle and clearly WOTF. (93 points)
1985 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Decanted at 3pm. Intense red fruit nose. Still a little tight. Ripe red fruit, but something seems off. I don't think this is a representative bottle. Hard to judge. Not rated.

Main Course, with Flights 2 & 3
Veal Chop Wrapped in Wild Boar Sausage with Brown Goat Butter Sage-Smashed Pumpkin & Wild Mushrooms

Chef Ryan tells us about the veal chop, while Jesse pours.

The veal chop was the perfect accompaniment to the 1998 & 2001 Barbarescos.
It was like a rib eye steak but with the delicacy of veal. The sausage was delicious,
but a bit spicy to go with the wine, so I pushed it to the side for after.

Flight 2: 1998 & 2000

2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Double decanted at 1pm. Fragrant nose of roses, meatloaf, and fruitcake. Dense tannic structure. Really impressive and long. Giacosa did a great job of getting enough structure into his 2000s. I think they will hold up long than most other 2000s. (94 points)
1998 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Double decanted, then slow-o'ed at 3pm. Smoky black and red fruit nose. Tannic, backward and structure. Amazingly so for a 98, but the fruit is showing and this wine has surprising elegance given its power. (94 points)
1998 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Double-decanted at 11am. Wow! Floral nose of red fruit. Rich and expansive. Best wine so far tonight. This is really hitting on all cylinders. Just beginning its drinking window i would say. Still has some primary fruit, but showing loads of complexity. (94 points)
1998 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Slow-o'ed for 6 hours, then double decanted. Nose of fruitcake, beef and iron. Classic SSR. Perhaps not as powerful as the 82, 89 or 90, but still a terrific wine. The richest of these 98s, it is a long and powerful wine with an ethereal quality that makes the wine soar in my palate and in my heart. (97 points)

Flight 3: 2001

2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Slow-o'ed for 6 hours, then double decanted. Black fruit nose. Thick, rich, delicious wine, but still quite young. Should drink well for 15 or more years. Note: A lot of others at this dinner thought this wine was clearly corked, including the guy who brought it. Maybe I got a different wine? (93 points)
2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Double-decanted at 11am. Gorgeous black fruit nose. Incredible richness. I could smell this all night. Still quite young, but very enjoyable with this long decant. Great sense of harmony. Just a bit better than the 2001 Pora tonight. (94 points)
2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Slow-o'ed for 6 hours, then double decanted. Smoky black fruit. Incredibly rich and structured. Licorice and black fruit. Wow, I love this wine! (95 points)
2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Double decanted at 11am. Can it be that this is even better than the Rabaja and Asili? Wow, incredibly rich black fruit. Young, intense, with great structure. Amazing. (96 points)
2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Double-decanted then slow-o'ed at 10am. So dark and black and expansive. This wine takes it up another notch. The depth is amazing. Riveting and expansive, with a finish that goes on forever. Giacosa could have made all his Barbarescos as riservas in 2001, but since he only wanted to have one, this is it. Amazing. A great wine. (98 points)

Conclusion

There are great wines made in Barbaresco. The 85's were a mixed bag, but 1998, 2001, and the one 2000 all showed extremely well. 1998 is an excellent vintage in Barbareso. 2001 is a shade better. Just a bit more structure and power.

Tasting notes posted from CellarTracker.

Eric Guido's notes on this tasting can be found here.

Dessert
Italian Chocolate Pudding with Fontodi Olive Oil & Sea Salt.

People Photos

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Marc & Iggy.

Tony, Michael, Marc & Iggy.

Chef Ryan serving the risotto.

Jonathan, Ben, Eric, & Jesse.

Tony, Michael, Marc & Iggy.