NK 1989 Barolo
Dovetail Restaurant, NYC
11/14/2015
For the second evening of this Nebbiolo Knights weekend, we stepped it up a notch by moving to
the superb restaurant Dovetail and moving from the 1985 vintage to the 1989.
Notes from the first night are here.
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The food and service at Dovetail are exceptional starting with exquisite amuse-bouche.
Flight 1
Mostly with the amuse-bouche above.
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1989 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 2pm.] Lovely, complex cherry nose. Still quite tannic, but delicious,
long, and complex. (94 points)
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1989 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 2pm.] Muted cherry and forest floor nose. Simple sour cherries on the palate.
Disappointing. (88 points)
Steve and Tom:
Tom, Greg, Jamie:
Jamie, Ben:
Flight 2
With Pig Ravioli, Sour Cream, Turnip, & Dill.
I can't tell you how exquisite this dish was. Just magical.
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1989 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Bricco Rocche -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted about 10am.] Black cherry nose. Silky, tannic, tart with bright fruit.
Some earthiness on the finish. (92 points)
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1989 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Doubled decanted at 10am the day before.] Incredible nose of sweet red fruit and licorice.
Silky sweet tannins. Classic 1989 with beautiful tannic structure and intense fruit.
A wonderful wine that is getting better in the glass in spite of having been double-decanted
for more than 30 hours. (95 points)
While I went to the men's room, someone grabbed my camera.
I'm not sure
who owns the copyright
on any of these.
Flight 3
With White Truffle Risotto.
This was a touch salty and not the very best white truffles, but
good truffles are better than no truffles.
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1989 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 2pm.] Muted black cherry nose. Sweet fruit, drying tannins.
Some VA mars what could have been a great bottle. (93 points)
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1989 Cappellano Barolo Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 2pm.] Amazingly intense black fruit nose. Rich black and red fruit.
Penetrating and intense. Still young with at least 20 good years ahead. WOTN so far.
My original note contains the word "amazing" 3 times. Wish I owned some of this.
Ridiculously good wine. (98 points)
Flight 4
With Lamb Saddle, Buckwheat Crêpes, & Green Olive Purée.
Some of the best lamb I've had in a long time, and the buckwheat crêpes were amazing.
The buckwheat crêpes are that thing that looks like burnt chocolate cake.
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1989 Vietti Barolo Riserva Villero - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Doubled decanted at 10am the day before.] Somewhat odd nose. Nice structure on the palate.
Tannic and structured. Gaining sweetness in the glass. Not showing its best, esp. between the
Cappellano and the Giacosa. (94 points)
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1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 2pm.] Crazy good wine. Complex, floral nose.
Classic fruitcake, licorice, and tar. A riveting wine that vibrates in the back of my mouth.
A monument. Tom thought he had brought the Falletto Riserva and several of us agreed this was the
best Falletto Riserva until Ben pointed out it was actually the Rionda. Go figure.
A very happy mistake by the all too generous Tom. (100 points)
Dessert
Warm Appple Tart with Sage Créme Fraîche and rum Pecans. Petit Fours.
Summary
This was a very good showing for this great vintage.
I most definitely enjoyed these wines, as well as the food and the company.
Notes posted from CellarTracker.
All original content © Ken Vastola