Cappellano Vertical
at
Lusardi’s Restaurant,
1494 2nd Ave (near 78th), NYC (12/15/2015)
This group was started by Tony Kim through the discussion forum on
Antonio Galloni's Vinous.
We've been meeting semi-regularly to drink Nebbiolo for a little over a year now.
For some background on the Cappellano winery, see my
Cappellano page.
The food at Lusardi's was excellent until the main course.
The lamb I had was mediocre and covered in some brown sauce.
All the previous courses were delicious.
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The photo on the right was taken in the men's room. The review says
This cozy space continues to serve some of the best Italian fare
in the city. Favorites: pepper-crusted tuna and heirloom tomato salad;
warm goat cheese with pears, almond and arugula salad; lemon sole in
light prosecco wine sauce; homemade mushroom ravioli; pear tart; and
dense chocolate cake. [Nov. 13, 2013]
Starter
Flight 1: Older Barolos
Carpaccio di Vitello (veal carpaccio marinated with truffle oil and lemon,
with mache leaves, pickled wild mushrooms and shaved truffle cheese). Very tasty!
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1964 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 8am.] Smoky black cherries on the nose. Elegant and expansive in the mouth.
Still has some tannin. Long, elegant. Still has some richness and sweet fruit.
(95 points)
-
1971 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at noon.] Complex, fragrant nose. Floral and expansive. Some bite on the finish.
This has an extraordinary nose, but the 64 is better on the palate.
Both extremely enjoyable. (95 points)
The neck tag is from the 1964.
Flight 2: 1995 and 1996
Polenta e Brasato Cannellini (polenta with braised cannellini beans) and
Crespelle Fiorentina (eggplant filled with ricotta cheese and spinach,
baked in a pink sauce).
Both really yummy.
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1995 Cappellano Barolo Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 12:30pm.] Rich, complex black fruit. Tarry, balanced.
Just a gorgeous wine, one of the best of the vintage. (94 points)
-
1996 Cappellano Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Double-decanted at 11am.] Soft, elegant. Still has acid and tannin, but quite drinkable now
and for at least 10 more years. Long finish of licorice and sour cherries. WOTN for some.
(94 points)
-
1996 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at noon.] Incredibly long black cherries. Stunning nose.
An incredible wine with a terrific future. I can only hope to drink this again in 20 years.
WOTN for me. (98–100 points)
Flight 3: 1997 Barolos
Tortelli in Salsa Tartufata (homemade ravioli filled with wild mushrooms, spinach and fontina cheese,
in a truffle cream sauce)
and Gnocchi alla Piemontese (homemade gnocchi sautéed in meat sauce with a touch of cream).
These were both delicious.
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1997 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for one hour at about 8am.] Dark black fruit nose.
Tarty, appealing sour cherries and licorice on the palate. Nice wine. (92 points)
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1997 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for one hour at about 8am.] A bit hot with black cherry liqueur on the nose and palate.
So intense. A little over-ripe for me. Too much like cough medicine.
Could be great in 10 years, but I would not bet on it. (93 points)
Flight 4: 2001-2003 Barolos
With the pasta dishes described above.
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2000 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 12:30pm.] Ripe red fruit and sulfur nose. Hot in the mouth.
Not sure if it is an off bottle, or just the vintage. Judgement reserved.
-
2001 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 12:30pm.] Muted black fruit nose. Tight and tannic.
Very backward and hard to judge at this point.
Doesn't seem to have quite the richness of the best 2001 Barolos. (93–?? points)
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2003 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 12:30pm.] Black fruit nose. Silky and delicious in the mouth.
Has great fruit and balance. One of the wines of the vintage. (94 points)
Flight 5: 2007 and 2008 Barolos
Carre d’Agnello al Forno (roast rack of lamb in thyme sauce
with baby vegetables and basil whipped potatoes).
This was the only dish that was less than excellent.
The meat was bland and overcooked (ordered rare),
and the sauce was blah.
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2007 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for one hour at about 11am.] Fragrant black cherry nose.
Rich, sweet, gorgeous. Still young, but quite enjoyable. Should be at its best 2020-2030.
(95 points)
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2007 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Corked. (NR/flawed)
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2008 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 12:30pm.] Sweet fruit, but with excellent structure.
A touch hot, but that should fade in a few years. Menthol. (93 points)
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2008 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 11am.] Rich, structured, stunningly complex.
So very young and tannic, but the potential is obvious. A great wine. (96–?? points)
Summary
Further confirmation that Cappellano is and has been one of the great traditional producers of Barolo
for a long time.
My tasting notes posted from CellarTracker.
Eric Guido's notes on this tasting can be found
on his Cellar Table blog.
You can also find a shorter version of his notes along with comments from others in this
Wine Berserkers thread and this
Vinous Your Say thread [subscription required].
People Photos
Click on any photo with a border for a larger view.
Jamie, Iggy & Eric.
Ben and Michael G.
Michael G, Tony, Michael Z, Marc, & Jonathan.
Tony, Michael Z, & Marc behind the full line up.
All original content © Ken Vastola