Neb Vinous 1996 Barolo & Barbaresco Dinner
@ L'Apicio,
East Village, NYC, 6/15/2016
This group was started by Tony Kim through the discussion forum on Antonio Galloni's Vinous.
We've been meeting semi-regularly to drink Nebbiolo for close to two years now.
We met at L'Apicio,
13 East First Street (between Second & Bowery) in the East Village at 6:30.
Just a few blocks south of where the
Fillmore East
and Ratner's once reigned.
The food and the setting were perfect.
The tasting was blind in a somewhat unusual way. We all knew which 12 wines were in the tasting and
which sets of 4 wines were grouped into a flight, but we did not know the order of the flights or
the order of the wines within each flight. However, we did a reveal after each flight, so we had no
idea which flight was Flight 1, but we knew that Flight 2 was either the Barbaresco or the
Serralunga flight, and when we got to Flight 3, we knew it had to be the Serralunga flight
(but again, not the order of the wines within the flight).
Click on any photo with a border for a larger view of that photo.
Some larger photos contain more image as well as much higher resolution and are typically 3-4 MB.
L'Apicio is beautiful new restaurant
from the same folks that brought us
L'Artusi.
The warm modern interior was designed by
Workshop/APD.
Here are a couple of photos of the interior from their website.
The area on the right in the photo on the right is of the space where we ate
with the doors on the right open.
There are more photos of L'Apicio on the
website of Workshop/APD.
Starter
Focaccia and Olive Oil:
-
2005 Kongsgaard Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley
[Pop & pour.] Big rich buttery nose. Complex and full in the mouth. Delicious wine!
(94 points)
Flight 1: Monforte d'Alba & Castiglione Falletto
Shared Apps (all so very good):
Charred Octopus with Fregola, Sopressata, Olives, and Lemon:
Tuscan Kale Caesar with Shaved Brussels Sprouts, Parmesan Vinaigrette, & Pickled Red Onions:
Anson Mills Polenta with a Ragu of Pennsylvania Mushrooms:
Balsamic Tomato Bruschetta: Marinated Cherry Tomatoes, Ricotta, and Torn Basil:
Arancini with Tomato Sauce:
-
1996 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Opened around 9, decanted at 3, left in decanter about 2 hours, and then back into the bottle.]
Smoky black fruit nose. Balsam. Tart and tannic cherries. Thick and silky. A lovely wine.
(93 points)
-
1996 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 10am. Cork sucked back into the bottle.] Muted woodsy nose.
Tart tannic but also a little cooked? Not a representative bottle, I think.
(NR)
-
1996 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 10am.] Sweet, forward complex. Long and delicious finish.
The most ready tonight of the wines so far. Really lovely. (94 points)
-
1996 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Ca d'Morissio Riserva Monprivato -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 9am.] Black fruit and tar nose. Stunningly complex in the mouth.
A riveting wine. Super long, but still far from its peak. Wow! (97 points)
Flight 2: Barbaresco
Shared Pasta Course (all great, but the Tajarin is to die for):
Gnocchi with Braised Rabbit Ragu, Sage, and English Peas:
Tajarin (Hand-Cut Fettucine) with Speck, Leeks, and Carbonara:
Spaghetti with Tomato, Basil, and Parmesan:
and a side of Meatballs (gratis):
-
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Double-decanted around 10am.] Stunning black fruit and tar nose. Rich, structured, expansive.
A terrific and exciting bottle of wine. (98 points)
-
1996 Cappellano Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Double decanted at 11am.] Same nose as the Asili Riserva (so I thought it might be the Giacosa SS).
Iron and rich fruit in the mouth (so again I thought it might be the Giacosa SS). Very long.
A terrific wine with a long future. 95-97 (96 points)
-
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Rabajā - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Double decanted at 11am.] Thick dark ripe fruit. Muted nose.
Quite tannic, but also expansive and tasty. Needs time. (95 points)
-
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Double-decanted around 10am.] Silky, sour cherry.
Appealing, complex, tannic, but with a long finish. (94 points)
Flight 3: Serralung d'Alba
New York Strip Steak with Summer Squash, Carrot Tops, and Dijon Glace.
The best steak I've had in a restaurant in a long time:
-
1996 Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 8am.] Stunning black fruit nose. Thick, rich, brooding.
I thought this could have been the Cappellano Franco. Stunningly complex wine with a long future.
More ready than the Cappellano Franco. Should drink very well for at least 20 more years.
The happy surprise of the night. (97 points)
-
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 8am.] Muted medicinal nose. Backward, thick. Chocolate and black cherry.
Doesn't taste at all like Giacosa. Maybe an off bottle? (NR)
-
1996 Cappellano Barolo Pič Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 11am.] Black fruit, tar and licorice nose. Amazingly sweet, tannic, and complex.
Simply a great young wine. Great length and complexity. Wow. Just wow. 96-98 (97 points)
-
1996 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 10am.] Austere, aggressive tarry tannins. Vegetative note.
Sweet vanilla on the finish. (91 points)
Summary
1996 is a great vintage. Many of the best wines still need time,
but with air are now showing a lot of their potential.
Notes posted from CellarTracker.
People Photos
Ben, Iggy, Tony, Eric, Michael G:
Jamie, Marc, Jonathan, Michael Z, FWG:
All original content © Ken Vastola