I sat next to Terry Robards. His wife Julie Pelletier Robards, my friend Larry Snavley,
and another couple from Lake Placid, Duncan & Delphine Winter, were at our table.
We all had a grand time.
One particular highlight for me was when Terry told me
about his visits with Bruno Giacosa in the 1970s.
The restaurant is located in the former Rip Van Dam Hotel.
It is part of a major renovation of the old hotel along with adjacent properties.
Renowned chef Gray Kunz is one of the partners in Salt & Char.
The General Manager is Christophe Chatron-Michaud and the
Executive Chef is Braden Reardon. We were not in the main restaurant, but
in a private room on the 2nd floor.
More information about Salt & Char can be found in
this article in Eater.
Click on any image with a border for a larger view of that image.
Front view of the Rip Van Dam Hotel (center) and the Adelphi Hotel (right).
While the main restaurant of Salt & Char is in the old Rip Van Dam Hotel (center),
I believe we were in the room that takes up most of the second floor above
the Starbucks on the left. All three buildings are connected in the back
and part of a major renovation of both hotels by the
Adelphi Hospitality Group.
An old photo of the same two hotels.
(Saratoga Springs History Museum)
These two are the only hotels remaining from the golden age of Saratoga.
These were actually two of the smallest from that period.
The Grand Union Hotel just on the other side of Washington Street
was at one time, the largest hotel in the world.
The Reception
With Les Hors d’Oeuvres Variés.
NV Charles de Cazanove Champagne Tête de Cuvée - France, Champagne
[Pop & pour after being out of refrigeration for about a half hour.] Light, pleasant.
Otherwise not notable. (86 points)
2015 Mallory and Benjamin Talmard Mâcon-Uchizy -
France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Uchizy
[Pop & pour after being out of refrigeration for about a half hour.]
Soft, pleasantly floral nose. Oddly sweet and sour in the mouth. Not bad, just unusual,
esp. for a Chardonnay-based wine. Kind of intriguing. Goes well with assorted apps.
(88 points)
Grand Sénéchal Joel Hodes encourages everyone to sit down to dinner.
The dinner wines are ready to go:
The Dinner
Delphine & Duncan Winter, and Julie Pelletier Robards:
Terry Robards & Delphine Winter.
Larry Snavley.
White Burgundy
Crab Cake, Dijonnaise, Mustard Greens and Locally-Grown Radishes.
2009 Louis Latour Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Sous le Puits -
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
[Removed from refrigeration at 4pm. Opened at 4:20pm. Tasted from 5 to 5:30.]
Nose of butter and slate. Thick, rich, long and complex.
Quite young, but the finish is long and buttery.
Could improve for several more years. (93 points)
The name "Sous le Puits" means "Under the Well" and comes from the fact that
Sous les Puits is situated near a mineral spring at the top of the hill of Blagny,
just above La Garenne. Sous les Puits faces south-east.
The wine is aged 8 to 10 months in oak barrels, 50% new.
Duncan Winter takes a photo of Julie Pelletier Robards with
Salt & Char Wine Director Daniel Combs:
Red Burgundy 1
Braised Pork Belly, Maitake mushrooms, Sherry Jus. Delicious, but overpowered the wine.
2007 Domaine Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots -
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
[Opened at 4pm. Tasted at 5:45.] Big, smoky, black fruit nose.
Gorgeous black cherries in the mouth. Really enjoyable now, but in no danger of fading.
Dried black cherries and chocolate on a long finish.
A little overpowered by the Braised Pork Belly, but really shines with the Coq au Vin.
A vibrant, appealing wine. (95 points)
Since the early death of Dr. Georges Mugneret in 1988, this domaine has been run by
his widow, Jacqueline, and their two daughters, Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée.
Premier crus like Chaignots are racked after malolactic fermentation and again about six
months later, but there is with no pre-bottling filtration. Aged in 40% new oak.
Red Burgundy 2
Coq au Vin, Roasted Root Vegetables. This was so delicious and perfect with the red wines.
2006 Camille Giroud Pommard 1er Cru Les Épenots -
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
[Opened at 4pm. Tasted at 6:15.] Floral nose of cherries and raspberries.
Bright red fruit. Plenty of acid. Could use a bit more time, but quite tasty now,
esp. with the Coq au Vin. (94-95 points)
This was a very traditional winery until 2002 when it was purchased by a group of
Americans led by banker Joe Wender and winery owner Ann Colgin, the husband and wife
team that run Colgin Cellars in California.
It is managed on a day to day basis by winemaker David Croix (of Domaine des Croix)
in a much more modern style.
This 2006 Les Épenots was made from purchased grapes.
Margie & Larry Kirsch, Amanda & Jared Shulman:
Kira & Joel Spiro, Joel Hodes, Ilona Weisman.
Red Burgundy 3
Prime Ribeye Steak, Duck Fat Fingerling Potatoes, Sauce Bordelaise.
2005 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Mazoyères-Chambertin -
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
[Opened at 4pm. Tasted at 6:45.] Wow! A powerhouse of black and red fruits.
Quite extracted, rich and jammy. The nose is quite muted at this point.
Very young. Even the beef doesn't help. Could be great in another 5 years.
Right now, it is almost Syrah-like. (93-96 points)
This domaine is one of only four that bottle both a Charmes-Chambertin and
a Mazoyères-Chambertin separately.
The rules allow Mazoyères-Chambertin to be bottled under the name Charmes-Chambertin.
Joel Hodes leads the silly dance:
Dessert
Mini Apple Tatin, Local Milk Ice Cream.
1977 D'Oliveiras Madeira Boal - Portugal, Madeira
[Pop & pour.] Smoky caramelized nose. Stunningly complex, but there's enough oxidation
there that it is hard not to be reminded of good wines gone bad. Oxidized prune juice.
Oddly appealing, but hard for me to love. (93 points)
The restaurant staff comes out to receive our thanks and applause:
Joel Hodes presents a memento to Special Events Director Patrick Kelly (left)
and Chef Braden Reardon (right):
This dinner was organized by John Fritze and Jared Shulman.
They graciously provided the Madeira.
Unfortunately, John was unable to join us for the dinner,
so it was left to Jared to give a toast:
Jared chats with Chef Braden Reardon and Toby Milde (one of the owners) after the dinner:
Conclusion
A lovely evening all around. The food, the wines, and the company were very, very good.