NV Bring a Great Barolo Dinner
@ il Buco Restaurant,
47 Bond Street, NYC, 8/9/2021
This Nebbiolo group (formed though the Vinous forum)
had not met in almost two years due to the covid pandemic.
We were finally able to get together and share some Barolo.
For our first time back, we decided not to make the theme too specific.
Just bring an excellent Barolo.
Still, when the wines each of us were bringing were shared, they did fit nicely into 4 flights.
Il Buco on Bond Street insisted on proof of covid vaccination for each person eating inside,
and we were happy to comply. All of their employees were vaccinated and masked.
There was also extensive outdoor seating for those not vaccinated or who just wanted to eat outside.
The food and the service were remarkable. Every dish was delicious.
This is a first-rate restaurant in every way.
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Arriving at il Buco:
The place setting:
House-baked bread and olives marinated in fennel pollen, rosemary, lemon zest:
Flight 1: Old Cappellano Barolo
1968 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 10am.] Lovely nose of cherries and mulch.
Beautiful in the mouth with dried cherries and tar.
Nearing the end of life but still lovely to drink.
1973 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 10am.] Muted nose of soy and tar. Flat in the mouth.
This was either badly stored at some point or mildly corked.
Flight 2: 1985 Barolo
1985 Paolo Scavino Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around noon. According to Eric this is a rare riserva with no vineyard on the label.
It was in fact from a parcel in Bussia that they rented for a few years.
It was aged in large Slavonian oak.]
Smoky nose of black fruit, tar, and bark mulch. Lots of red fruit up front.
Long tannic finish of black fruit and licorice.
1985 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 11am.] Restrained nose of dark black fruit, tar, and licorice.
Stunning in the mouth. Gorgeous, ethereal, complex. Wow! Clearly one of the top wines of the vintage.
With the first two flights of wine, we shared these wonderful appetizers.
Bikini: Ibérico shoulder ham, fresh mozzarella, summer truffle, pan blanco:
Burrata: Maplebrook Farm's burrata, red cherries,
toasted pine nuts, aged balsamic:
Boquerones: House-cured white anchovies,
beefsteak tomato, pangrattato, 25 year sherry vinegar:
Pomodori: Heirloom tomato panzanella,
lemon cucumber, opal basil, buckwheat bread:
Cavolonero: Tuscan black kale, garlic-anchovy-lemon vinaigrette,
filone croutons, Parmigiano Reggiano:
Flight 3: 1990 Aldo Conterno Barolo
1990 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 10am.] Gorgeous floral nose of roses and cherries. Beautiful in the mouth.
Ready to drink, but will hold for another decade. Expansive, floral, complex. Lots of minerals.
1990 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 12:30 pm.] Nose of dark fruit and violets.
Much more tannic than the 1990 Colonello.
Needs 5-10 years to finish resolving the tannins.Expansive and complex.
My pasta course was fresh oreccheitte with Hudson Valley lamb sausage,
broccoli di cicco, and fiore di Sardo:
The other pasta course was house-made egg pasta, ricotta-filled ravioli
with summer black truffles and parmigiano-reggiano:
Flight 4: 2000+ Serralunga d'Alba
2006 Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for 1 hour and 20 minutes around 8am.] Beautiful nose of black and red fruit.
Rich, powerful. Young with a long finish. Should improve for 20 years or more.
2000 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Pop & pour. This was a delightful surprise.
Marc was concerned that the 2001 Cappellano Rupestris
he brought was corked, so he brought this as a back-up bottle.
The Rupestris was corked, so he opened this.]
Ethereal nose of red fruit and baking spice. Expansive, silky, just gorgeous.
Showing really well for a pop and pour. Not near its peak, but very enjoyable right now.
2002 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 8am.] This was such a treat to taste this iconic wine.
A great wine produced in a bad year by a brilliant winemaker.
Nose of black fruit, tar, and licorice. Sumptuous velvety texture in the mouth.
Super long finish of tar, marzipan, and black plums. Young, but a joy to drink now.
Mind blowing! (98–100 points)
My main course was grilled Painted Hills Farms strip loin steak
with fingerling potatoes,
blistered shishito peppers, and romesco (cooked rare as requested):
One other main course was cast-ironroasted Bella Bella Farm baby chicken
with eggplant puree, fresh red currants, and Taggiasca olives:
Ben is happy when he sees Flight 4:
What a great way to renew our dinners and our friendship.
il Buco did a terrific job. We will definitely be coming back.
My tasting notes posted from
All original content © Ken Vastola